There Is No North Highland Way. No Way.

Well there isn’t. It’s being negotiated by people who want to secure rights of way for walkers like me so they can benefit the area by increasing tourism. It will be a route from John O’Groats to Cape Wrath which will run close to the remote northernmost coast of the British Mainland. On the map below you can see John O’Groats on the mainland top right and Cape Wrath is the furthest point northwest beyond Durness. There is a road most of the way but I won’t take it for too long. 

  
We’ll take a look at Dunnet Head en route – the most northerly point of mainland UK. I want to camp this time, although it’s a B&B tonight in Wick after a 16 hour journey on four trains. Let’s see. Edinburgh was beautiful an hour ago with the piper drawing a few tears from my eyes. I can’t help it. The Cape Wrath Trail did me in physically and mentally last year until I couldn’t do it any more. The biting cold, permanent wet clothes, soaked boots on badly blistered feet and I hated it, but I had to go back. I have to go back again. It’s beyond appreciation of the stunning views, when the mountains choose to emerge from the clouds. It’s a genetic thing. I can understand Glaswegian émigrés in bars in Australia, slaking their thirst in the warmth of the Sydney sun, singing of their longing for the Highlands. Covered in sleet with nobody there, and then warming up for ten seconds of a summer that draws out billions of flesh biting midges to fill your days with pain and misery. 

Anyway. Edinburgh was lovely.

  
  
The piper played with the dignity of a man with history and destiny on his side. Rocking backwards and forwards. Both purposeful and ethereal. Over the top? I’m right behind you. 1000 pipers died in world war 1. 

Let’s sing another song boys, this one has grown old and bitter.

The Scottish craft shops do good business near the station. I wasn’t surprised to see the history pamphlets of each Clan on display. Equally unsurprising was the beermat representing the Smith Clan. We’ve worked hard for that accreditation.

   
 The next journey to Perth was beginning to look a lot like Scotland. 

Laters.