Beni to Relleu – an uphill struggle

Who needs pepper spray when I’ve got my ferrous friend?


According to several blogs the GR7 footpath is clogged with blackberry bushes in parts so I got this to free it up a bit. Can’t wait to use it. I sharpened it before I left home so it could take a paw off with ease. Alright, alright I won’t use it on wild dogs. Unless nobody’s watching! If I hear a wolf howling in the night I’ll keech myself. If a wolf sees me with this in the night he’ll keech himself. 

Anyway last night the evening meal was included in the room rate, as well as unlimited wine. I felt a bit sluggish this morning so it’s an early night tonight. The walk today was mostly uphill. It heads through Finisterra on its way up to Relleu, with picturesque hanging houses.


Behind Finisterra lurks the big hulk of Puig Campana, usually shrouded in cloud. It had snow on it when I went up a couple of years ago. Higher than Ben Nevis it’s a bugger to climb but a fantastic view if clear as far as Ibiza. 


Turning a corner in Finisterra and looking up the valley opening up before me the various mountain ridges in sunshine and shade looked spectacular. I like this photo as much as any I’ve ever taken.


You can refine it and leave out the house and look further to the left but, as a quick pick-up- your- iPad – and – click, I like it a lot. I was struggling up the steeper parts. My rucksack is around 17 kilos today with my hold-all and water on board, but it felt heavier. I’m a shadow of my former self.


It’s a 15 mile walk and a climb of 2000 feet with the ups and downs. There was a torrential downpour two weeks ago which lasted for three days. Three people drowned. The earth is still damp and the valley bottoms which are usually dry are gushing with rivers and streams. The upside is that I won’t need to carry much water on those stretches where I won’t pass a shop for two or three days. The downside is that the tent might be coated in mud. We’ll see. It didn’t do the oranges and lemons any harm.


Road walking today and tomorrow. I’m not bothered too much but some purists scoff at tarmac. It gives a decent if hard surface and doesn’t get you wet and muddy. From Finisterra across to the main road to Relleu a new road has been cut through the rock, exposing fantastic rock formations.


What really pushed my buttons was what I thought were quartz seams in the limestone walls.


However on closer inspection, and particularly where the seam was exposed by water action, it turned out to be marble. Beautiful marble. Cop this. Stunning.


Slogging up a long hillside the temperature cooled to almost chilly and on reaching the top a plateau opened up and I could see Relleu in the distance. Usually that puts a spring in my step but I was too knackered to leap forward. It looked a long way away. 


The hostel is nice, Casa Perla run by a Dutch couple. The town was still wearing it’s Christmas dressings following a local Three Kings procession as we had in Beni.


I’m tired now. I’ve bathed and eaten and I’m going to sleep. 

Night night.

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