Dufton to Langdon Beck – God Was ‘Ere

The Way was only 12 miles today so I thought I would do it easily and quickly. I got up and packed a dry tent. Amazingly despite the forecast from hell the weather was dry. I timed it so that I’d be on the way for 10am when the local cafe opened. My fifth full English/Scottish breakfast in seven days. No wonder I ain’t losing weight. And it was great. 

This is today’s route to Langdon Beck Hotel, between the two maroon triangles. Hey, hey, hey I’m in a hotel tonight. Not posh but blooming fantastic. 


The route ran up the nearest hill turning from road to track to path. Looking back is always nice. I couldn’t choose between these views so I done them both. 


The Way climbs up above 2,000 feet again and then rambles along the edge of a glacial valley. It’s impressive.


And then when you get to the head of the valley the view back is breathtaking. This is High Cup Nick.

This was a tipping point. The beck emerging halfway down the limestone valley in the above photo eventually comes out into the Irish Sea. A quarter of a mile eastwards and I was following a tributary of the Tees downhill to the North Sea. And on occasions it cascaded quite spectacularly.


And on again.


This was tough going. The Way disappears and you have to climb down the rock at the side of the valley, which is tough with a rucksack. I’m not a climber. I like it but I’m too rigid and inflexible, particularly my knees, to do it well. 

Further down the river calmed.


There was a real slowdown for a mile and a half of boulders spread across the valley. This was very tough on legs and feet. Keeping balance on them with a heavy rucksack is difficult.


I got a sudden call of nature and stood with a foot on each of these two stones in the river and released my doo-dah. With a bit of luck it’ll come down a tap in Hillsborough.


The route went on and on and eventually turned left up a track to the Hotel. Through a field of cows and a rampant bull. I climbed over a wall and waded through a deep bog to escape. The Hotel was great, food great and cheap and a good bath and sleep. This is the view from my room.

Night night.

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