Blink and You’ve Missed It – Tivissa to Mora d’Ebre

What a great night’s sleep. I only had one pee break and otherwise slept through until 07.40.  Gazza slept through to 08.40. Lucky divil.  Breakfast was revolting, some kind of mushy, heated pastrami with cheese in a sandwich. Horrible. Pity we don’t speak Catalan. 

The world outside was chilly and wet with very low cloud.


Luckily we were walking towards the northwest, and south of the mountains, and then cutting westward to the River Ebro and the town Mora d’Ebro. This was to be a short day of around 15 kms. We cut across country on a short cut that I’d seen on some old maps but we got pulled up by a bloke who was quite opinionated. Although we couldn’t understand Catalan he indicated that we should go back a kilometre and walk alongside the dual-carriageway to Mora and that we couldn’t continue down the track we were on because it led to a private finca (farmhouse). Bullshit. This was a public track.

We haven’t found the Catalans to be overly friendly. Quite the opposite compared to the other regions of Spain. Miserable and introspective. If I was Spain I would grant the miserable buggers independence and see them off. Malcontents.

We diverted away from the track that the bloke had stopped us on and followed a different and very quiet road. No point in arguing, even though I’ve got a machete. The weather deteriorated and although we hadn’t left until 10.00am we strode at a fair pace. 


This wasn’t mountain country; it was fruit and vineyard land. It was chucking it down but we really struck a strong pace. Walking side by side, silent but very manly. Bloody hell, we’re tough. Well…. maybe not.

After a while the road cut down, and although we couldn’t see the mountains on the far side of the river we felt we were making good time. The cutting showed great rock colouring.


Pushing on we made it to the outskirts of Mora by 1230! We were so determined in the pouring rain and aided by a downward path that we nailed it. It was only 9 miles today but we needed the rest and we did it really fast. Over 3 miles an hour. And got down to Mora pretty fast.


We cut across country to the second Ebro crossing. 


And Gazza spotted quite a few huge carp in the margins. Amazing. The most highly regarded fishing river in Europe.

We arrived in Mora at 12.45. I’d thought we would be much, much later. Determined marching in cold and rain. We done well and rewarded ourselves with an amazing four course lunch for just over £8each. Beautiful. 

We’re early for our room but we’ll get there soon and get a reyt early neet to steal a march on tomorrow. Thislocal vermouth was free and was the dog’s. 

This street graffiti reinforces the independence sentiment. Let them have it. There are many quiet and miserable people here. Free them!


Night night.

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