Braga to Manang – the Grand Old Duke of York (2nd blog today)

I woke and gasped for breath a dozen or more times in the night but Jetty was improved and we were up for the short walk to Manang and lodge there for one or two nights. The original schedule was to continue from Manang south west into the Annapurna range for two days to reach the highest lake in the Himalayas and then head north for another day to join the Circuit again. 

We decided that the priority was to cross the Thorung La pass and that we stay on the Circuit, sadly missing out Tilicho Lake. If we didn’t make Thorung La, a big challenge at nearly 18,000 feet, then we were in difficulty as the only other route out was to retrace our steps. 

Setting off after a late breakfast we caught our first sight of a Yak. Blurry, black shape on this photo.

The Gangapurna glacier loomed and looked brooding in the high valley.

The mountains looked great as a backdrop as the leaves that are green turn to gold. And they wither with the wind. And they crumble in your hand.

Further up the valley Tilicho was snowbound and winter was creeping in day by day. 

We made Manang quickly, checked in to the guest house and Jet and I collected our dirty clothes, went to a shop that did laundry and got it washed and dried for less than three quid. We called in at a different medical centre and got advice on altitude from a volunteer Yankee doctor and bought some electrolyte water additives. Going back to the guest house we had lunch with Prem and Sulis and decided that we should go across the river and climb up towards the glacier, and back again. And when we were only halfway up……. This jump in altitude would help us acclimatise to the higher guest house tomorrow, with thinner air.

We took off, Sulis stayed to rest, and we climbed up 1,600 feet. The views were great, as per.


Coming back down Manang looked like a little model in the valley.

The little vertical cairns drew a line towards Thorung La.

The meltwater from the glacier collected in Gangapurna Lake, naturally formed by the ice pushing earth into a dam wall. 

Down the valley the way we had come the view was just as good.

We collected our, now, clean clothes and got back to the guest house. Before dinner the mountain opposite looked great.

Night night.