Ghorepani to Poon Hill to Hille – but it’s hard, it’s really hard, sometimes I feel like going down. 

Thanks John. 

There is a vantage point at 10,500 feet, up above Ghorepani, where there is a panoramic view of the Dhaulagiri range and the Annapurna range of mountain peaks. It is called Poon Hill. Like pilgrims, people get up well before dawn, don warm clothes and head torches and climb, largely in silence, up the footpath for an hour, shedding layers of clothing on the way. Most of the way is ancient steps so the footsteps and nodding of the beam of the torch on the steps in front, surrounded by jungle, gives the climb a meaning and the participants a sense of purpose beyond sightseeing. It feels ritualistic. Let’s sacrifice somebody at the top!

Gathered at the summit there was a hut dispensing warm tea, and the dark was beginning to break up. Around two hundred people waited in anticipation of the dawn. As the light grew it was apparent that the clouds would obscure a lot of what we were here to see. But the clouds parted to reveal the summit of Fishtail Mountain, the holy mountain of Nepal which climbers are not allowed upon.

And, to the left of that, Annapurna South was revealed, behind a fat bald bloke with a hat and a beard. Weirdo!

The sun was beginning to make an appearance and created some gaps in the clouds. Showing Annapurna South to the right and Gangapurna behind to the left. It was more than a week ago since we were climbing up the other side of Gangapurna to the bottom of its glacier from Manang. 

We loved the views but we had to go back down, pack our gear, get breakfast and hit the track, Jack. Even on the way down the patchy views were awe inspiring.

Down at the guest house we could see down the valley towards the Dhaulagiri range and Dhaulagiri itself was peeping through the clouds of the storm that had previously killed the poor little buggers from Korea with their local guides.

Then breakfast and then the long trek downhill to Hille, dropping 4,300 feet today.

Goodbye altitude. I doubt that I shall ever climb as high again, but tomorrow never knows. Thanks again John.

We went over the top of the pass that Ghorepani straddles and immediately started dropping down on the footpath through jungle. Hindus at work to persuade their god to grant salvation.

People were climbing up the path carrying goods and essentials. There are two men here carrying bamboo foliage for animal feed.

One guy was carrying a full-sized fridge on his back. A group of young lads was carrying huge burdens. And the path isn’t half a mile on the level. It’s 5 miles climbing 4,500 feet. A tough breed. Or many breeds. There are numerous ethnic groupings in Nepal, all living in peace. 

The jungle is stunning here. This is a view down into the gorge carrying the river.

And this one is less spectacular but equally impressive with the light on the vegetation, the movement of the water and the shapes and textures of the leaves. Cop this little stream view, bubbling down to the main river.

Dropping further, rivers began to converge and valleys cut the mountains in segments. And we were back in major avalanche territory.

Then, in the middle of all this serious stuff, we stopped for lunch!

After a good tuck in we set off again, down, down, deeper and down. Thanks Francis.

This stretch went on for ever and was again mostly ancient steps that really tested our calf muscles. And they failed. C minus. Did I tell you I was deprived of a first class honours degree at the London School of Economics by a scheming group of professors?

We crossed two rivers at the bottom on swinging bridges and hit upon the path on the far side of the valley, nestled in the sun, eventually leading down to our guest house in Hille. 

Great day, great walk, great company, great country. We’re down to lower altitudes now, and it’s very warm. Luurvely.

Night night.