Pokhara Express Bus – Dog Days

I woke up without my loved one’s arms around me – despite what Orlando says. Early start, quick pack and off to the bus terminus not far away. I left a bag of stuff that I don’t need for later collection. 7.30am departure and the streets were already hot and quite sticky. Mercifully the bus was air conditioned and almost empty.

Kathmandu is a bit messy, but nice. The traffic was light and we stopped for lunch, included in the bus price, by the river after four hours on the road. The journey to Pokhara is bumpy but safe. Unless the bridge collapses into the monsoon waters.

The food isn’t bad at all, mostly curry but pretty good. Three more hours after lunch and we crossed another river and then on into Pokhara, with its famous Fewa lake.

My hotel was five minutes walk from the bus terminus at Lakeside. Not pestered by roaming stalkers, only those in shops who sit outside soliciting custom. A shower, a kip and out for dinner. Christ it was hot. Hotter than Kathmandu and stickier. I walked along the lake front, which has shops and restaurants most of the way so it wasn’t too dark – street lighting isn’t great – and ate fish from the lake in spices.

My bed awaited and then it was 8am! Just like that. Thanks Tommy.

Fried eggs and guava for breakfast and I met my new guide, Bhim and the trekking company’s guy. Bhim is nice, he’ll help me by carrying water and some heavier items and he’s a great guide.

Let’s put in a photo from today. Fancy a boat ride?

They wanted to send me and Bhim on buses to the start of the trek but there was some debate over whether the road was blocked by landslides. After checking we found out that it was navigable by small buses and four wheel drives but it was rendered ‘off road’ for an hour of the drive after monsoon slippage.

There was some toing and froing and if I wanted a four wheel drive then it would be expensive. I got a quote from my hotel owner for a cheaper price in his 4wd so the trekking company came down to match it. It’s going to be a difficult enough trek without horrendous bus rides so I’m happier.

Another photo please Dave! OK you little monkeys! Here’s one on Zen and the Art of Rowing Boat Maintenance. Never did finish that book.

We finished business and then I was free to walk, eat sleep and eat.

A bit too early for the bananas in the hotel garden.

And the lake was great. Apparently Prince Charles stayed in this hotel just across from where a load of guys were fishing. Oh lardy dah!

This looks like a Hindu shrine to a bloke who knows next to nothing about Hinduism.

And as a part of it is this much smaller object of worship, with a carving of Ganesha, the god of beginnings. I hope that he will look kindly on the beginning of our trek tomorrow.

The local guys were riveted by a game of chess, which was invented just down the road in India 1,400 years ago. How many centuries have lads from this village taken a queen across this table?

Below them on the bankside the anglers were out taking advantage of any pick up in feeding activity in the early evening. I’ve not seen owt caught yet.

I was melting in the heat. The sticky heat of late afternoon that pulls the sweat from ma wee baldy heed! But I wasn’t anywhere near as hot as these lads must be, playing football with speed and maximum commitment but no nastiness. It’s well up into the thirties centigrade.

The trees at lakeside must have seen centuries of toings and froings – phrase of the day. They are huge, solid and timeless. Amazing.

And, before I ate another great meal of lake fish and ginger sauce, the day ended over the far mountains at the head of the lake.

Night night.