The view from our room was impressive. We’re in a twin room for most of this trip it seems but we’re ok with it. Needs must in this region.

Today was a rest day, although we questioned our guide‘s understanding of rest. He had us up early, dressed, booted and breakfasted and on a 5 hour route march up the nearest mountain.

Firstly to a viewpoint above the village with our first view of Lhotse and part of Everest mostly covered by cloud and in the distance just to the left of the statue of Sherpa Tenzing.

With other fabulous views down the valley.

Then we had another grueller, climbing another thousand feet above the village.

And Nir entertained us by risking death during the climb. An earlier fall with a head injury kept him out of action for 12 months!

At the top of the hill we walked for half an hour along the ridge away from the village to a vantage point and – there was Everest in the distance to the left of Lhotse. An awe inspiring moment.

We were happy to stay here a while and enjoy the place, each others’ company and the views.

Yakkety Yak, don’t look back!

The journey back down was easier, arriving back at our accommodation in time for lunch, loafing in the afternoon and watching the Manchester derby. The last opportunity to see TV, never mind football on TV, for ten days.

We are going up country tomorrow and communication, electricity and basic hygiene may not be available. I’ll be in touch when I can.

Night night.

We were making good time up the valley of the Milk River, so called because it looks like milk, so it stands to reason. The path crossed backwards and forwards over the swingers, which got longer and higher.

Then incredibly I saw a bald headed old bastard who looked just like me! Astonishing. It was me really. Nir took the photo. 😁

And then a squeaky bum moment. The valley got steeper, to the extent that the path cut up high above the river, with two swinging bridges straddling the gorge. And it was our luck that we had to use the high one. Hooray! Congratulate me whilst I poo my pants.

Senor Kilby was now getting used to these ridiculously fragile looking swinging bouncers.

Then the track took a serious upturn, with a long, steep route for the next three hours. It hurt and seemed to be never ending, with the river and its beautiful views disappearing into forest.

Eventually Namche came in to view and the relief was palpable. We were at a fair altitude now – over 11,000 feet – and the reduced oxygen level was apparent during the climb.

On the way to our accommodation we passed a local volleyball match. No room for football pitches in this terrain.

Namche is reasonably developed, although the only ground route in is over that ridiculously high swing bridge. Anyway, we’ll enjoy it for the next two nights whilst we get acclimatised to the altitude. We’ll then be on our way into a much more remote region.

Night night.

Well it’s going to be a long slog today, climbing three thousand feet over 7 hours up to the biggest village on our route, Namche Bazar. We had an early breakfast and early start, setting off at 8am. Senor Kilby was well prepared for all elements, sun, rain and calf-biting mosquitos.

The path crossed the river over a swinging bridge and started to climb. And as it did the most amazing views began to emerge.

Before we arrived it had rained for 12 days with below zero conditions at night on some of our route. A woman coming down from Everest Base Camp described the nights as brutal.

I’m trying not to feel smug but we’re here in Mediterranean temperatures and it’s good, sweaty walking weather.

To be continued……

David has suggested doing short blogs as sometimes we get Wi-Fi for a minute or two so I’ll post this now.

We set off from our hotel this morning at 5am, quickly reaching the airport and hanging around hoping that our flight to Lukla was working. We later heard that the service had been out for a week due to adverse weather conditions so we were lucky when we heard that it was all clear and we were on our way.

The plane was small, noisy, old and full – all 15 seats were taken by folk like us. Trekkers!

It was reassuring that Senor Kilby was on the plane too.

But it was claustrophobic.

It’s a dangerous airport to fly into, with 7 fatal crashes in the last 20 years and over 50 people losing their lives. The landing is swift and can be harsh, as the runway is tiny and runs quickly into the side of the mountain. Luckily it is quite steep, which helps to slow planes down.

At the airport we met Nir, our guide, Amar and Bala, the two porters, and we had breakfast together. Lukla has no road into it and you arrive in at over 8,000 feet. The Everest region is remote, ridiculously mountainous and is only accessible by planes through Lukla, helicopters through a small number of helipads and footpaths which usually follow the river valleys. Lukla itself is a 4 day trek from the nearest road.

Nir has an immediate rapport with his trekkers, as well as a quirky sense of humour and strong personality. Good lad.

We shouldered our packs and made off through the warm forest cum jungle up the valley. It is around 30c when the sun is out, but falls sharply at night. We got a sweat on.

And the path meandered upwards, downwards and across the river and it’s tributaries on wobbly and outrageously high footbridges. This one hides a 100 foot drop onto the stream and rocks below.

We were affected by the lower oxygen level, even at this altitude, huffing and puffing and slightly light headed. And we were heading onwards and upwards into a Buddhist territory, evidenced by carved boulders and 600 year old stone mantra carvings.

Within three hours we reached our accommodation in Phakding, had lunch, got our rooms and set off down to the waterside. Men become boys by water, throwing stones into the raging torrent of a river and monkeying around.

After an hour or so David and myself found an Irish pub in Phakding. This is a tiny village, accessible only by footpath, and the pub, apart from not being Irish, had no customers, local beer and a pool table. This could only have been carried up by men. There are regular donkey caravans but donkeys couldn’t have carried this.

We had a couple of beers, played pool under very dodgy lights which were out longer than they were on. Then returned to our tea house for Dinner and bed at 8pm. A long day and we need our strength for tomorrow.

Night night.

Just to reassure everyone that Davids Kilby and Smith are alive, well and having an amazing trek, in a part of Nepal where Wi-Fi is barely existent.

As a result I can’t publish a blog with any photos. To describe this part of the Himalayas Senor Kilby says it’s like waking up on a different planet.

We will find a way to publish photos on this blog. XX