Climbing Nangkartshang – On a Clear Day

Thanks Jim. Nangkartshang, like a glittering prize, I saw you up on a clear day.

And all around, when we awoke, the spirits of these Himalayan mountains sparkled and breathed deeply in the morning sun. So did Nir and myself. We had got up early, whilst Dan was still snoring in Lobuche after his fantastic efforts the day before.

It was one of those mornings when you want to kiss God’s arse and thank him that you were born to be here, today. Right here, right now. Thanks Fat Boy. And best wishes to another Fat Boy friend, who can’t be here. Not that he would have if he could. He’s not well, but for old time’s sake he’s welcome.

Right, this is where we are heading. Almost directly above us, at the top of a two and a half thousand foot climb. This is the shot from part way up.

A rest day yesterday and we boys (me and Nir) are on fire. Not able to emulate the heroics of Dan, we want to exonerate ourselves in advance of any accusations that we may be Soft South…… Ok I’ll stop it. Ern BWs. Ha!

We want to prove we can climb big altitude differences, and this would do it, again. This is our view across the other side of the valley. Silence, there is always silence at this altitude unless people are involved. It adds to the sense of spirituality. I’m not sure what that means exactly but it’s something palpable and majestic.

So breakfast and we’re off. We’re a bit lower than Lobuche and the air is slightly richer. I’m not gasping in the first section of the walk.

We did this climb two years ago, me and my friend Killer, but it got very icy and snowy halfway up. Amazingly we displayed safety consciousness and decided to head downhill when we were in danger. Today is clear of ice and snow on our route and I’m not going to stop.

The views became more stunning the higher we climbed.

Me and Nir. I enjoy our time together very much. He looks after me like a carer. Making sure I’m hydrated and trying to carry everything for me. He calls Daniel ‘Donald’. He’s obviously come across Duck and Trump but Defoe and Deronda seem to have escaped him. When I stumble he says ‘Slowly, David, Slowly’. I don’t intend to go quickly.

The sun is very cruel at this altitude, with not much filter, and we sweat our way upwards.

We are on good walking form. Early sleep and early rise. Rested and refreshed. Enjoying the presence of these magnificent peaks. In silence. We passed a couple who took our photo.

The track winds backwards and forwards in hairpins to ease the legs of aged trekkers. There are significant points on the ascent, where the climber can rest and enjoy the view without huffing and puffing.

The slope got steeper. However, I knew I was going to make the top. No doubt. My last Himalayan climb. I was going to enjoy and remember this.

Nir tipped me off that we were, after nearly four hours, getting near the top. I was slightly disappointed. Short of breath and remaining years I still wanted this to never end. To rise up to share eye level with these mountain peaks was amazing.

And then we were there and another group took our photographs.

I didn’t feel sad that this is the end, my friend. Thanks Jim. I felt happy. This is somewhere that I have loved and enjoyed over a period of six years. With Jet, my darling youngest daughter, then on my Tod, then with David Kilby and now with Donald. I will cherish its memory.

We started back down and made Dingboche in time for a late lunch. Donald and Amit had arrived, over the Kongma La pass, to meet us. We ate and decided to press on down today. Dropping quickly down, with all our gear, to the meeting of two rivers. The one coming in from the right is from the glacier we crossed coming down from the Cho La pass, mixing with the water from the Khumbu glacier on Everest. The one coming down from behind us to the left is from the mountains above Dingboche that we saw earlier today.

We gunned it to make Pengboche in time for food and a beer, now that we were getting below the altitude sickness zone. And there, down below, was Pengboche.

The only thing we had left behind was Shane MacGowan.

He thought we were staying in Dingboche overnight so he pushed off to a place where we couldn’t find him. As a result Amit was overloaded. We all weighed in to help but he took the brunt!

We got to Pengboche, rested and refuelled. Tomorrow Namche, the highest Irish Bar in the world and party time!

Night night.