Wembury to Bigbury on Sea

Our challenge was to get back to Wembury, and Che sorted that by coaching us out in her motor. It was a short walk to get to the ferry across the estuary to Noss Mayo. From Noss Mayo we needed to leg it quickly for nearly four hours to reach the Erme estuary so that we could wade across the river before it became flooded by the incoming tide.

David and Chantal are fit and it was me holding them back, but I don’t want to try to go beyond my steady pace as I’m sure I’d damage something. But just keep going steadily and I can cover decent distances. Particularly when the path climbs and falls a lot.

We made the ferry crossing in decent time.

On the other side there were some rock oysters clinging to the lowest rocks and I managed to dislodge two. Salty, creamy and fresh. They are really difficult to loosen from the rocks, more obstinate than limpets. I then freed another one later so Chantal, David and myself each had a taste.

The coast was getting more and more stunning.

As we rounded the corner we could see our challenge. The Erme estuary was just below the horizon in the centre of the photo. The island off Bigbury on Sea which we were aiming for today is on the horizon to the right of this photo in the haze.

The walk up and down the cliffs was taxing again and we were beginning to feel it. It took us nearly four hours to make it into the estuary and the tide was still well and truly out.

The sand leading down to the river was squidgy in places, like quicksand. And in the water there were banks of sand which gave way to squidgy bits and deeper bits and bits that felt alright. We took our boots and socks off and waded across where we thought it was shallowest.

It was a bit chilly but certainly not unpleasant, although it was a great shame that Chantal didn’t stumble over here and, in the process of throwing her phone over to dry land, dive head first into the drink, getting washed downstream and out to sea, where she had to be rescued by the RNLI, justifying mine and David’s fundraising efforts for them last year. That would have been a laugh wouldn’t it. Rhetorical question.

After the lower limb exposure to the cold water our legs were burning and full of energy. Wonderful testament to the power of cold water dips.

We dried off and rebooted, found the Coast Path and continued. Hooraay!

I like hooraay me. It’s enthusiastic and rousing. Inspiring too, like the Coast Path in this area of South Devon. How beautiful it is.

There are so many coves, beaches and headlands with nobody on them. A wonderful land. Much, much more than green and pleasant.

After more serious ups and downs we made it to Challaborough, which I’d walked to and from the previous evening so we were continuous to Bigbury on Sea. Sixteen miles today, which is not shabby for this type of topography.

Che, being the usual hero, drove round to join us at the pub on the holiday development there, where we had a good meal, a few drinks and watched European Cup football. Then she drove us home. What a great way to end a great day.

Night night.

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