I had a poor sleep due to my lungs being uncomfortable and I had a bad case of the runs last night and this morning. I’ve taken some Imodium donated by Senor Kilby (I’ve no idea why I call him that) and it seems to have settled down so it might have been a flash in the pan! Sorry about the pun but it wasn’t pleasant so I won’t poo poo it.

The cloud was low but the temperature was ok and we set off in shorts and quickly took off waterproof jackets to walk in the light rain in t shirts. After an hour looking down the valley we could make out Pangboche.

Our guide Nir has been courting four Americans as potential future punters and he has exclusive use of my iPad when he’s carrying it.

The year is moving on and Autumn is beginning to paint its colours on the trees. Although we are coming close to the tree line, beyond which only the occasional stunted hardy pine is seen. And without tree cover the ground is prone to landslides and erosion.

After two and a half hours we arived here in Dingboche, at 14,500 feet and even thinner air. We’re on a rest day tomorrow so we’re using it to get acclimatised to a higher altitude by climbing a local hill and coming down again. It works.

Bala has stayed in Namche Bazar as he is getting better pay on construction there so Amar is our only porter. He is carrying quite a load but he can carry a lot more apparently. I tried the load. Chuffing hell!

I’ll leave it to the expert.

Night night.

It was an early start this morning and we were heading for Pangboche, a further couple of hours walking than we originally anticipated. The weather was on our side again.

The views were just as exciting as the day before. This is the Killer gazing at them with awe and amazement. Or maybe he’s just remembered that he forgot to put his gaiters on.

This photo sums up this beautiful country. A Yak wandering down the track, a Buddhist shrine behind it and a 25,000 foot peak behind that.

We take regular stops to rest a bit and drink water. Hydration is essential to stave off altitude sickness and we’re working our way up to 5 litres a day at the higher levels. We hopefully won’t need an emergency evacuation by that chopper over our heads.

We are in the Sagarmatha National Park and these wild goats are protected here, as are the Red Panda and the Snow Leopard.

Even rarer, however, is the Senor Kilby. There is only one left here and it was recently caught on film. It does exist despite all the cynicism. The abominable Englishman ladies and gentlemen.

The path goes down as well as up even if you’re going up. And we are going up. Over 1500 feet altitude increase today.

Eventually we reach the river and a tea house providing lunch. Then immediately after we have the longest climb of the day up to the village of Tengboche. This hurt, the only way to do it is slowly. And on a welcome break the peak of Kang Taiga, at 22,000 feet, poked through the cloud and said hello to our fellowship.

Climbing over the ridge leading to Tengboche we were astonished by the sight of Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse up the valley, now much closer.

Tengboche Buddhist Monastery is famous in the region and is amazing.

We were not allowed to take photographs inside but we were allowed to enter in shorts, with boots respectfully discarded. The decoration and the size of the golden statue of Buddha were incredible. Like entering another world. In another time, in another place – thanks Van.

We set off again for Pangboche, back down to the river and up the hillside for an hour to finish the day. Passing wood pixies.

And youngsters harvesting potatoes.

Crossing the river we huffed and puffed up to Pangboche and a frustrating evening squeezing blogs out of an intermittent and underpowered Wi-Fi.

Night night.

And some other poor buggers taking off.

Had to include this as David had just been talking about how the Himalayas have a spiritual value and Nir did this in reply!

The view from our room was impressive. We’re in a twin room for most of this trip it seems but we’re ok with it. Needs must in this region.

Today was a rest day, although we questioned our guide‘s understanding of rest. He had us up early, dressed, booted and breakfasted and on a 5 hour route march up the nearest mountain.

Firstly to a viewpoint above the village with our first view of Lhotse and part of Everest mostly covered by cloud and in the distance just to the left of the statue of Sherpa Tenzing.

With other fabulous views down the valley.

Then we had another grueller, climbing another thousand feet above the village.

And Nir entertained us by risking death during the climb. An earlier fall with a head injury kept him out of action for 12 months!

At the top of the hill we walked for half an hour along the ridge away from the village to a vantage point and – there was Everest in the distance to the left of Lhotse. An awe inspiring moment.

We were happy to stay here a while and enjoy the place, each others’ company and the views.

Yakkety Yak, don’t look back!

The journey back down was easier, arriving back at our accommodation in time for lunch, loafing in the afternoon and watching the Manchester derby. The last opportunity to see TV, never mind football on TV, for ten days.

We are going up country tomorrow and communication, electricity and basic hygiene may not be available. I’ll be in touch when I can.

Night night.

We were making good time up the valley of the Milk River, so called because it looks like milk, so it stands to reason. The path crossed backwards and forwards over the swingers, which got longer and higher.

Then incredibly I saw a bald headed old bastard who looked just like me! Astonishing. It was me really. Nir took the photo. 😁

And then a squeaky bum moment. The valley got steeper, to the extent that the path cut up high above the river, with two swinging bridges straddling the gorge. And it was our luck that we had to use the high one. Hooray! Congratulate me whilst I poo my pants.

Senor Kilby was now getting used to these ridiculously fragile looking swinging bouncers.

Then the track took a serious upturn, with a long, steep route for the next three hours. It hurt and seemed to be never ending, with the river and its beautiful views disappearing into forest.

Eventually Namche came in to view and the relief was palpable. We were at a fair altitude now – over 11,000 feet – and the reduced oxygen level was apparent during the climb.

On the way to our accommodation we passed a local volleyball match. No room for football pitches in this terrain.

Namche is reasonably developed, although the only ground route in is over that ridiculously high swing bridge. Anyway, we’ll enjoy it for the next two nights whilst we get acclimatised to the altitude. We’ll then be on our way into a much more remote region.

Night night.

Well it’s going to be a long slog today, climbing three thousand feet over 7 hours up to the biggest village on our route, Namche Bazar. We had an early breakfast and early start, setting off at 8am. Senor Kilby was well prepared for all elements, sun, rain and calf-biting mosquitos.

The path crossed the river over a swinging bridge and started to climb. And as it did the most amazing views began to emerge.

Before we arrived it had rained for 12 days with below zero conditions at night on some of our route. A woman coming down from Everest Base Camp described the nights as brutal.

I’m trying not to feel smug but we’re here in Mediterranean temperatures and it’s good, sweaty walking weather.

To be continued……

David has suggested doing short blogs as sometimes we get Wi-Fi for a minute or two so I’ll post this now.

We set off from our hotel this morning at 5am, quickly reaching the airport and hanging around hoping that our flight to Lukla was working. We later heard that the service had been out for a week due to adverse weather conditions so we were lucky when we heard that it was all clear and we were on our way.

The plane was small, noisy, old and full – all 15 seats were taken by folk like us. Trekkers!

It was reassuring that Senor Kilby was on the plane too.

But it was claustrophobic.

It’s a dangerous airport to fly into, with 7 fatal crashes in the last 20 years and over 50 people losing their lives. The landing is swift and can be harsh, as the runway is tiny and runs quickly into the side of the mountain. Luckily it is quite steep, which helps to slow planes down.

At the airport we met Nir, our guide, Amar and Bala, the two porters, and we had breakfast together. Lukla has no road into it and you arrive in at over 8,000 feet. The Everest region is remote, ridiculously mountainous and is only accessible by planes through Lukla, helicopters through a small number of helipads and footpaths which usually follow the river valleys. Lukla itself is a 4 day trek from the nearest road.

Nir has an immediate rapport with his trekkers, as well as a quirky sense of humour and strong personality. Good lad.

We shouldered our packs and made off through the warm forest cum jungle up the valley. It is around 30c when the sun is out, but falls sharply at night. We got a sweat on.

And the path meandered upwards, downwards and across the river and it’s tributaries on wobbly and outrageously high footbridges. This one hides a 100 foot drop onto the stream and rocks below.

We were affected by the lower oxygen level, even at this altitude, huffing and puffing and slightly light headed. And we were heading onwards and upwards into a Buddhist territory, evidenced by carved boulders and 600 year old stone mantra carvings.

Within three hours we reached our accommodation in Phakding, had lunch, got our rooms and set off down to the waterside. Men become boys by water, throwing stones into the raging torrent of a river and monkeying around.

After an hour or so David and myself found an Irish pub in Phakding. This is a tiny village, accessible only by footpath, and the pub, apart from not being Irish, had no customers, local beer and a pool table. This could only have been carried up by men. There are regular donkey caravans but donkeys couldn’t have carried this.

We had a couple of beers, played pool under very dodgy lights which were out longer than they were on. Then returned to our tea house for Dinner and bed at 8pm. A long day and we need our strength for tomorrow.

Night night.

Just to reassure everyone that Davids Kilby and Smith are alive, well and having an amazing trek, in a part of Nepal where Wi-Fi is barely existent.

As a result I can’t publish a blog with any photos. To describe this part of the Himalayas Senor Kilby says it’s like waking up on a different planet.

We will find a way to publish photos on this blog. XX

What do you think about Van Morrison singing Snow in San Anselmo and the Waterboys singing Sweet Thing? Both written by Van the Man. Can’t you say? Speak up boy!

I’ve never heard them sir.

Hold out your hand! What do you think now boy?

Best music one can buy sir.

Nepal is visible, through my aeroplane window, down by the pylons. By the pylons. Thanks iVan.

Here I am. The only living boy in Kathmandu.

And my sister gave me a present!

And David is here!

And the shops are small and diverse.

But today was just orientation and tomorrow is a flight on a smallish plane to Lukla, or a helicopter if the weather is bad. We’re doing a reasonably hard walking route up to Everest Base Camp and then out into the wild a bit over three high passes. We’re in good spirits and ok for it. We will be out there for 3 weeks.

Anyway if this bloke is a Buddhist monk how come he doesn’t know that he doesn’t need an umbrella? Where has omniscience gone?

Let’s pray that we are ok?

This town is great despite the pressures, traffic and goods sellers, illusion dwellers. Oh Lord, why have you forsaken me?

I haven’t my boy. I’m here. I left in love, in laughter, and in truth, and wherever truth, love and laughter abide, I am there in spirit.

Thank you Lord. Be with David and I tomorrow.

I shall. Night night.