Calais to Audresselles – Never Wanted To (what am I to do?)

There’s enough here in Calais to remind you of the history attached to this place, right through to the pointless and brutal German invasion in the last world war. Executing men, women and children. Sorry, I’m not a big fan. But we’re all friends now, or we will be when they apologise for bombing the John Street stand at Sheffield United.

Rant over. I can’t help it, love’s always been my game.

Calais to Audresselles reminded me of the lovely German actress Marlene Dietrich, who opposed the Nazis, and it scans so beautifully with her song, Falling in Love Again, if you say it at the right speed and pitch. Evocative of many people and things, lost and passed.

The hotel in Calais was nice and the staff delightful, even giving me bacon and eggs for breakfast. Then I set off for the coast, through a park with an incredible framework and statues. These are big statues of Churchill and de Gaulle walking forward together through frames representing a small part of France, building up to it’s re-completion. Fantastic symbolism. And de Gaulle has bird shit down his back.

And bird shit down his front.

Winnie remained unsullied.

I like Calais. It’s more than ok, but not quite Hastings. But its history is fascinating. This is Tom Souville, a privateer (pirate) born in Calais and educated in Dover, who filled the French coffers during the Napoleonic years. The flag is a white cross on light blue background, the flag of Calais.

It’s a fun town as well.

But its source of cash is the sea.

Across the sea the white cliffs of England were just visible, to the right of centre on the horizon.

This lad can see it.

I set off at a pace behind the dunes. I felt fit and ready to cover distance. This gull is stalking a German fortification. Too late mate, we won. Again.

After 3 miles behind the dunes I crossed to the seafront and kept up a good pace on the sea wall for several miles.

It was windy, which masked the heat of the sun. In no time I was in Sangatte. Isn’t it weird that this is what we relate to? We have our place in the world and rarely reflect on the magnitude of the Universe. It takes 1.3 seconds for light to reach earth from the moon. It takes 12.9 billion years for light from the star Earendel to reach earth. Our brains can’t fully absorb this. Mine can’t. Best to concentrate on the next step.

Which saw me looking in a window at my reflection. Dint take long for my reflection to come back.

The sea wall ended in Sangatte and I had to cross a difficult pile of boulders to continue walking on the shore. A bit hairy after my fall, particularly with my rucksack, but it was ok. Then I cut up through town and out into the hillside away from the coast.

Up and over the top of the hill by Cap Blanc Nez and a great coastal view the other side, right along to Cap Gris Nez.

There is a continuous line of German gun positions. But some have fallen from the cliffs and are subject to battering by the sea and claiming by the sand. The ones still in the cliffs provide refuge for refugees, although I stopped and talked to three coppers who were trying to keep them away from the Junkers bunkers.

The dunes were becoming impressive and looking back Cap Blanc Nez was beautiful. Although the bloke in the wet suit seemed to be trying to fly somewhere.

Eventually my fast pace took me to the small coastal town of Wissant, and a friterie (chippy) where I ate chips and burger in the sun. Lovely. I then headed inland again across the base of the cape towards Audresselles, where I hoped to get a campsite for the night. I passed Fartz. Not bottom burps but a lake called Fartz. Right up my street. Anything for a cheap laugh.

Looking back towards the coast I’d made progress.

In no time at all I’d covered another ten miles and put my tent up. Two tins of mackerel from the local shop and an early night. Aw, don’t it look forlorn.

Night night.