Etretat to Le Havre – Awfully Nice

Although I was on the fifth floor and the day had tired me out I could still hear Parisian Vendredi carousing well into the daylight hours. My 6.15 alarm must have found some kind of glitch in the matrix because it sounded out before I went to sleep. Even so I reported a score of 9.7 out of 10 to my missus so that she was proud of my hypnagogic transition and hypnopompic emergence. It’s amazing what nonsense you can find on the net.

I packed my rucksack and belted it round to Parmentier metro. It was as dead as a doornail.

With a statue of Parmentier giving spuds to a poor person.

He was the world’s greatest exponent of mashed spuds, and if you see Summat Parmentier in a French restaurant then it’s like a posh Shepherd’s Pie. Our Froggy mate, Annie Carrere, does the best Duck Parmentier in the world.

The train journey started from St Lazare and the metro took me there before 7.30, where I enjoyed myself drinking coffee and eating a small Quiche Lorraine for breakfast. Wonderful.

At 8.15, and that’s the time that it’s always been, thanks Andy, the train took off for Normandy. A little station called Breaute Beuzeville, where I switched to a local bus and landed in Etretat at 11.30. I was so focused on the walk that I didn’t even go down to the seafront. After six months with a broken shoulder and no trekking I just wanted to walk. And it was great. It hurts a bit putting the rucksack on but after that it’s all fine.

The track I was aiming for was far steeper than I thought, and it gave me a good workout, with a brief view of the Channel over the roofs of Etretat.

I expected this to be a country lane walk. I had to get some speed on as it was nearly 18 miles to my overnight hotel in Le Havre. And I did! But the best surprise was that the route I had chosen, over days spent on Google maps and Google earth, was more country paths than lanes. It was lovely.

One farmer had tried to block the path with electric fences but it was easy to get under it. Sadly people had given up and the path beyond was heavily overgrown, but it was manageable.

The path passed posh places (lovely alliteration), with great ironmongery.

I was really enjoying this. And the forecast rain held off and a decent breeze kept me coolish.

I’ve no idea what this is. But it’s great.

I think this is barley.

I didn’t meet anyone else walking. And where the paths moved on to country lanes I didn’t encounter any cars. Just peace. How good are these churches in the middle of nowhere?

In the middle of the afternoon things were beginning to hurt a bit. I’m 69 years old and a bit of a fat bastard, so carrying 12kgs in my rucksack at a fast pace over 18 miles (27 kms), up and down country paths is a challenge.

I’ve enjoyed today. The rain started in Etretat but then held off. The paths were far better than I thought. And the piece de resistance was Le Havre. I was skirting the centre, coming down from the north to the east side of the docks area. It’s not attractive and me and Maggie have been in and out of the Le Havre ferry over the years and haven’t spent time in the city. Cop this! It’s west coast USA!

And this.

Well, the walk was really nice and Le Havre outskirts are lovely. Maybe not Richmond, but I got carried away. 18 miles was good today, after a late start from Etretat, so I’m happy with my progress. The weather is forecast for quite heavy thunder storms tomorrow and I’m putting up my tent tomorrow night. Oh dear. Never mind.

Sleep well my loves. Night night.